|Address||Kingston, ON K7L4V3
|For Sale By||Owner|
Never having found the 'right' project to make, this Stampmaker has been waiting... waiting for you.
All the original accessories are in the box, never having removed anything from the box, never plugged in the machine .. I looked in the box once, when I received it so it's time to let this go to a new home!
Free delivery to most Tim Hortons in Kingston!
watch a youtube video here: https://youtu.be/UTX8cfHXH2E
Read Amazon reviews : https://www.amazon.ca/TCS001-Teresa-Collins-Stampmaker-Black/dp/B0094GSQSY
One of the reviews provide great insight on how to properly use this machine and get the most details in your projects.
"I LOVE this kit - it's the most fun crafting tool I own. As long as you take the time to figure out the best printer settings to get good black negatives, you'll be amazed at how beautiful and professional your "rubber" stamps turn out. I make personalized art stamp sets to give as gifts for my crafting friends. The stamps made with this kit are the "stickier" type clear stamps that work well with both dye-based inks and pigment inks. (Some store-bought clear stamps only work well with pigment inks because dye-based inks tend to bead up on them.) Just be aware that you may waste one or two sachets until you get the hang of it, but then, the sky's the limit.
Hints for making negatives on HP printers: for the "Paper Type" setting, use any matte paper setting (such as matte photo paper) rather than a gloss paper setting. The matte settings seem to deposit more ink onto the paper/film. Also, for the "Print Quality" setting, the "Normal" setting actually deposits more ink than "Best". "Normal" uses fewer dots than "Best", but the dots are bigger and they overlap, so "Normal" actually produces a more solid black.
Tip for touching up your negative: After printing the negative, tape it to a sunny window, ink side toward the glass, and check for unwanted pinholes or thin spots in the ink. Use a black Sharpie marker to darken any areas that need it. Color only on the back side of the negative (the non-printed side). The marker may actually remove some of the printer ink if you try to color on the printed side.
Tip for washing out the exposed sachet: Always hold the scrub brush and sachet under the water as you gently scrub, using very light strokes. Scrubbing under water is less abrasive because the water lubricates everything. Also, it allows the liquid polymer to float away instead of sitting on the stamp after it is dislodged by the bristles.
If you are still having problems because your most delicate lines or tiny details are getting scrubbed off or wrinkled up no matter how gently you scrub, you may need to increase your exposure times in the UV light "oven". If the thin background layer is washing away at the outer edges and taking some of your details with it, then increase the "negative down" exposure time. (I've used up to 12 seconds for very detailed stamps.) If the lines themselves are too soft and are getting dislodged from the thin background layer of photo-polymer, then you need to increase the "negative up" exposure time. (I've used up to two minutes, but only for designs that use very very fine lines.) As long as your negatives are truly opaque, you can get away with longer exposures.
Tip for making your stamps clingy: The kit includes a really nice acrylic block with a clingy film surface that holds onto any unmounted stamp. Since the kit makes unmounted, non-clingy stamps, it provides you with this special block for holding them. However, there is a great way to make your home-made stamps clingy-backed just like store-bought stamps. Simply coat the back of your stamps with "Aleen's Tack-It Over & Over" glue, found at most craft stores. The glue stays tacky after it dries like the glue on a post-it note. Although I love the acrylic block that came with the kit, the glue is great for the stamps I give away as gifts."