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If you have ever looked at a photograph of Nova Scotia from space, the first thing you will notice is that it’s surrounded by water. The second thing you will notice is that the province is also covered in water, from tiny ponds to large lakes. It’s no wonder, then, that people have been travelling around the province by canoe since the time of the Mi’kmaq.
Many canoeists travel to Kejimkujik National Park in order for recreational paddling. However, going to Keji is a two-hour drive from the city of Halifax, and the park can often be crowded in the summer, requiring you to reserve campsites weeks or months in advance. By contrast, the backcountry east of Halifax is a much shorter drive, and is not nearly as popular. When you explore it, chances are you won’t see anybody else on the entire trip, and you can camp where you like without fear of all the sites being occupied. Furthermore, the four largest wilderness areas east of Halifax, Waverley-Salmon River Long Lake, White Lake, Ship Harbour Long Lake, and Tangier Grand Lake, feature more lakes between them than Kejimkujik National Park, and cover an area larger than the national park too. Finally, much of the topography east of Halifax is dominated by the Eastern Shore Granite Ridge, an area featuring towering bare granite hills, mature softwood forest, and frequent vertical cliffs, providing a change of scenery from the flat terrain of Kejimkujik National Park and much of the Southern Shore.
I hope you enjoy this sampling of canoe routes east of Halifax!
Toren Hynes
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