|Address||Peterborough, ON K9J2E9
My name is David, and I use equipment and techniques which create a convex grind on all the edges I repair and sharpen, due to the superior longevity and cutting efficiency of this type of edge. See my convex explanation at the bottom of this description for more information. My sharpening rate is typically $1.50 per inch of cutting edge that has to be sharpened, but the rate can vary depending exactly what the edge needs. I have a $10 minimum, so you might as well bring more than one blade if it's less than 6.5 inches!
Not all knives and tools are the same. Some are in good shape, but others are in worse shape will consume more time and resources to clean them up and sharpen them. So the more you can tell me about your knives, the more accurate a quote I can give you. How many, how long, serrated or plain edge, stainless or carbon steel, or something else (titanium, stellite, ceramic)? Sharpish, dullish, blunt as your big toe? Broken tip? Though I can always give you a more accurate idea of what to expect upon visual inspection of the blades.
In my years of experience sharpening knives and tools I have developed the ability to quickly and easily sharpen dull blades to paper slicing or hair shaving sharp. That is the benchmark I use for every knife that comes into my shop. Most knives people have brought me have steel that will take a razor edge. Some knives in cheap steels simply cannot take and/or hold a fine edge, but I have only run across a few of these and they all had the same things in common. Coloured plastic handles, under 3 inch blades of super thin, unnamed stainless steel. Not sharp at all, and would not hold a sharp edge despite my best efforts. Trying to sharpen these dollar store knives is like trying to make a castle out of jello. But most department store knife block steels hold a sharp edge more than reasonably well. I have sharpened such knives with great results, as well as knives in higher end steels, such as (but not limited to) high carbon steels, VG10, S30V, and INFI. There is no steel too hard for me to sharpen. I can sharpen ceramic blades too.
Size is not an issue, I can sharpen a pocket knife, a throwing axe, a machete or a lawn mower blade and most anything in between.
If you have damaged or chipped blades that you might have thought you'd never find useful again, or were afraid you'd have to replace, I will give them shaving sharp edges that will once again perform and stand up well to frequent use.
If you have a favourite knife that has gotten scratched, chipped, and dinged over the years, or has a bent or broken tip, I can polish out the scratches and dings and reshape it again into functional and beautiful knife for a good deal less than the cost of replacing it. This is a premium service, so show me the knife and I'll give you a quote.
Turn around time on sharpening is usually 2-3 business days. Expedited sharpening may also be an option, ask about it if you have an emergency, and we'll see what we can work out.
I am located in central Peterborough near Lansdowne place. Email, text or call with any questions, for an estimate, or to arrange a drop off. I'll be happy to meet you and make your old tools new again! Thanks for you time.
Convex explanation: First of all, convexing is not suitable to chisels or planer blades, so if you need these sharpened properly according to their function of removing and efficiently relieving material along a flat surface on only one side blade, then a convex blade profile is definitely not for you.
In other applications were symmetrical separation of material is acceptable or desirable, however, such as knife use, a case can be made for choosing convex over other types of edge geometry. But first we need to know the hows and whys.
Most factory edges edges are v shaped with flat bevels on either side. Cheap commercially available sharpeners feature carbides that produce a similar V shaped edge, usually around 20 degrees or so. (also known as a saber grind or scandi grind). While these both provide initially sharp edges, the useful life of these edges is much shorter than that of a convex grind, as they have less metal behind the edge. The V edge has flat bevels, but the convex as "shoulders" that curve down the blade toward the final apex, the very edge itself. Less metal behind the V edge means the edge will dull sooner by rolling or chipping than the convex edge will with it's more robust structure behind the apex of the edge.
Look down the spine of your knife at the very tip, you can see the geometry of your knife's cutting edge. If it appears to come to a fine point, rather than a bluntish looking big triangle, and if that geometry is kept the length of the blade, then you have yourself a sharp edge. The very end point of the knife's tip is the apex.
The geometry of the tip usually tells us what kind of grind is on the knife, both at the edge, which is all we've discussed so far, but also the primary grind, which contributes to the knife's overall look.
There are many primary grind types, flat grind, hollow grind, saber grind, etc., so if the tip looks like a rocket with curving tapered shoulders that seamlessly thin out to a needle sharp tip, you have a convex edge, and a nice one at that! The edge can often benefit from what is called a microbevel, that is a slightly higher angled grind at the edge that is so microscopically small that most will never notice it with the naked eye, unless they know to look for the very thin line reflected at the very edge of the blade when turned appropriately in the light. This adds substantial durability to the edge by taking a needle fine tip, and widening it ever so slightly.
I like to sharpen to an 18° primary edge with a 20° microbevel. I find this profile to be hair *popping* sharp with most steels, and though it loses it's ability to shave eventually (some steels faster than others), it keeps a great working edge, especially with regular stropping. If you have a sharp knife, and use it to the point of feeling duller, just strop it and you will find it comes back to life. You can even strop on cardboard.
The way to test for sharpness: VERY LIGHTLY touch the edge perpendicularly against your finger nail. If, rather than sliding, the edge catches your fingernail upon the very lightest, touch, and seems to want to pull the finger allong with it, you know you have a very sharp knife. It may not yet be shaving sharp at this point, but it will be working sharp, and quite nicely so.
If you have a knife that just needs a new edge because no amount of stropping will get it back into service, you know who to call.